Two Cold Wars and a Thirty-Year Journey Through Romania and Beyond. A riveting and timely account of Romania past and present, of a decades-long obsession with one country, and of the fate of Europe in the age of Putin, from the bestselling author of 'Balkan Ghosts'. A vivid blend of memoir, travelogue, journalism and history, thirty years in the making, it is the story of a journalist coming of age, and a country struggling to do the same. Upon his return to Romania in 2013 and '14, Kaplan found the country transformed yet again, now a travel destination shaped by Western tastes, yet still emerging from the long shadows of Hitler and Stalin.